Kho Samui Island - Wild and Free - Our first visit.
I had been to some other amazing islands before but this was my first trip to Kho Samui.
Our plan was to explore the island by motorbike, take it day by day and also enjoy our much-needed vacation time.
But as the week developed and the beautiful island revealed herself to us. We discovered that Kho Samui has something to offer for every budget and a lot of free fun things to do.
As first timers to Kho Samui, I'd say we did a lot, saw a lot and loved it there.
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| The Island is famous for its Palm-fringed beaches. |
Past and Present:
Kho Samui is on the Gulf of Thailand about 35 km north of Surat Thani Town. The central part of the Island is mostly mountainous jungle and the largest mountain is called Khao Pom.
Kho Samui is on the Gulf of Thailand about 35 km north of Surat Thani Town. The central part of the Island is mostly mountainous jungle and the largest mountain is called Khao Pom.
The lowlands are connected by Route 4169 which is 51 km long and encircling the Island.
The Island was inhabited 15 centuries ago by fisherman from the Maly Peninsula and China. It appears on Chinese Maps dating back to 1687. The origin of the name Samui is unknown and there are many theories about it. The one theory that stands out for me is that it is derived from the Malay word "saboey" which means safe haven. The word Kho means Island in Thai and therefore it is called Kho Samui.
By the mid-1970s Kho Samui came on the radar of western and European backpackers, hippies and adventurers as word spread about this secret pristine paradise. The Island certainly had a much different vibe in the 1970s and 1980s than today. It was a true paradise for those in search of a real escape to a tropical getaway.
From 1980,s until present the Island grew into one of the best tourist destinations and have a permanent population of 63000. There is still plenty to explore for travellers, from beautiful beaches, lush jungles, coconut trees and coral reefs.
Most important is the friendly Islanders, their kind hospitality and the laid back Island vibe that struck a chord in my heart.
Even though Kho Samui has been more developed in recent years, it has retained the tropical island vibe and you can still see glimpses of its wild and exotic past.
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| View from the Ferry |
How to get there:
By Air.
The most convenient way is to fly with Bangkok Airways from Bangkok itself, or from Singapore, Hongkong, Phuket or Pattaya.
Another option is to fly from Bangkok to Surathani and then ferry across to Kho Samui. This is cheaper than to fly directly to Kho Samui. Nok Air and Air Asia have daily flights to Surathani. Keep in mind that taking the bus from Surathani Airport to the pier and the ferry across is at least 3 hours of travel time
By Train:
The overnight train from Bangkok to Surathani is much more adventurous, fun and certainly more enjoyable than the bus. You can book a train ticket online on ThailandTrainTicket.com or alternatively buy them at Hua Lumpong Train Station in Bangkok or any train station on the route.
Another option is to do it through any Thai travel agent for a small fee.
Once you arrive at the train station you will have to board a bus that takes you to Don Sak Pier and from there the ferry to the Island. It's best to book overnight train tickets for at least five days in advance.
The overnight train from Bangkok to Surathani is much more adventurous, fun and certainly more enjoyable than the bus. You can book a train ticket online on ThailandTrainTicket.com or alternatively buy them at Hua Lumpong Train Station in Bangkok or any train station on the route.
Another option is to do it through any Thai travel agent for a small fee.
Once you arrive at the train station you will have to board a bus that takes you to Don Sak Pier and from there the ferry to the Island. It's best to book overnight train tickets for at least five days in advance.
By Bus:
We took the bus from Kho Saen Road and the bus ticket included the boat transfer to the Island.
You can also buy a bus ticket from the Southern Bus Terminal. The bus ride is about 9 hours to Surathani Town where you will have to board another bus to get to the pier.
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| Beautiful view of Hua Thanon bay |
Where to stay:
There are certainly many options for accommodation depending on your budget, from luxury resorts for wealthy holidaymakers to budget bungalows for backpackers. Each of the beaches and towns around the Island offers something different. We stayed in Lamai beach and loved the laid back feeling there.
There are certainly many options for accommodation depending on your budget, from luxury resorts for wealthy holidaymakers to budget bungalows for backpackers. Each of the beaches and towns around the Island offers something different. We stayed in Lamai beach and loved the laid back feeling there.
What to pack:
For packing, I would say bring one modest outfit to visit the temples ( something to cover your arms and legs). As for the rest, you need comfortable breathable clothes. I wore my jeans shorts only one day and felt like I was smothering. Light T-shirts, cotton shorts, flip flops and cool dresses etc. will be best in the tropical heat.
For packing, I would say bring one modest outfit to visit the temples ( something to cover your arms and legs). As for the rest, you need comfortable breathable clothes. I wore my jeans shorts only one day and felt like I was smothering. Light T-shirts, cotton shorts, flip flops and cool dresses etc. will be best in the tropical heat.
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| Map of Kho Samui |
How to get around:
There are many taxis available and Songtaews running between the beach areas. There are also many travel agencies where you could book a driver or a car depending on your plans for the day. You could also find out from your hotel about free shuttle services. I have seen many places that rent out 4x4 vehicles but I assume they would probably require a huge deposit upfront.
We rented a motorbike from a shop just around the corner from our bungalow and that is by far the cheapest and most adventurous way to explore the Island.
There are many taxis available and Songtaews running between the beach areas. There are also many travel agencies where you could book a driver or a car depending on your plans for the day. You could also find out from your hotel about free shuttle services. I have seen many places that rent out 4x4 vehicles but I assume they would probably require a huge deposit upfront.
We rented a motorbike from a shop just around the corner from our bungalow and that is by far the cheapest and most adventurous way to explore the Island.
Highlights of our trip:
Hinta and Hinyai - Grandmother and Grandfather rock
It is rock formations that look like human organs and there is also folklore attached to it.
We went there out of curiosity and found that indeed many tourists visit the sight. It does indeed look like the real organs. According to legend, an old couple who lived in Nakhon Si Thammarat wanted to find a bride for their son who had come of age. They sailed to the neighbouring province and on the way their boat was destroyed by a storm. The died at sea and turned into rocks as proof to the would-be bride of their true intentions and the rocks stand there to this day.
A visit to this site does not take long and you can linger a while to have a coffee or buy something at the little market there.
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| Grandmother and Grandfather rocks |
Hinta and Hinyai - Grandmother and Grandfather rock
It is rock formations that look like human organs and there is also folklore attached to it.
We went there out of curiosity and found that indeed many tourists visit the sight. It does indeed look like the real organs. According to legend, an old couple who lived in Nakhon Si Thammarat wanted to find a bride for their son who had come of age. They sailed to the neighbouring province and on the way their boat was destroyed by a storm. The died at sea and turned into rocks as proof to the would-be bride of their true intentions and the rocks stand there to this day.
A visit to this site does not take long and you can linger a while to have a coffee or buy something at the little market there.
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| A spectacular view at one of the viewpoints. |
Motorbiking around the Island with great views all around:
This is a great way to explore the Island and see all the not so touristy things. On the motorbike, you see some of the most spectacular views around the Island. Being on the bike with the wind in your hair and the freedom of the road is an unforgettable experience. Many times we just took a little excursion off the road and was never disappointed with what we saw. The roads are generally well maintained and we only found lots of traffic in the Chaweng Area which is the busier part of the Island.
This is a great way to explore the Island and see all the not so touristy things. On the motorbike, you see some of the most spectacular views around the Island. Being on the bike with the wind in your hair and the freedom of the road is an unforgettable experience. Many times we just took a little excursion off the road and was never disappointed with what we saw. The roads are generally well maintained and we only found lots of traffic in the Chaweng Area which is the busier part of the Island.
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| The lush jungles - the wild and exotic heartbeat of the Island. |
Waterfalls and Jungle Experience.
We were advised that the Waterfalls did not have much water at this time of year. So we did not make much effort to visit them and in hindsight, I do regret that now. However, as we explored by motorbike we found many little roads going up the hills into the jungle.
We were advised that the Waterfalls did not have much water at this time of year. So we did not make much effort to visit them and in hindsight, I do regret that now. However, as we explored by motorbike we found many little roads going up the hills into the jungle.
Seeing and experiencing the sounds and sights of the Jungle is very exciting and you can feel the "wild heartbeat" of it.
If you want to experience a more organised hike or jungle walk you can book at any of the tours companies. They have many packaged tours that include the jungle hike and 4x4 drives around the Island to various waterfalls and hiking paths.
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| Bhoput beach - Fisherman's Village |
Bophut and Fisherman's Village
Bhoput is the stretch of beach between the Big Buddha and Maenam beach. There is also a charming Fisherman's Village in the middle section of the beach. It is probably one of the oldest villages on the Island and has a growing reputation for being the most well-preserved place on the Island. It has a bit of a Mediterranean feel as it used to be a French outpost on the Island for many years.
The Fisherman's Village Walking Street market is the largest market in Samui. It is open on Friday nights and well worth a visit. People come from all over the Island to explore this market on Friday evenings.
On one of our daily excursions, we stopped there for lunch and took some amazing pictures of the old jetty.
Bhoput is the stretch of beach between the Big Buddha and Maenam beach. There is also a charming Fisherman's Village in the middle section of the beach. It is probably one of the oldest villages on the Island and has a growing reputation for being the most well-preserved place on the Island. It has a bit of a Mediterranean feel as it used to be a French outpost on the Island for many years.
The Fisherman's Village Walking Street market is the largest market in Samui. It is open on Friday nights and well worth a visit. People come from all over the Island to explore this market on Friday evenings.
On one of our daily excursions, we stopped there for lunch and took some amazing pictures of the old jetty.
It is certainly a bit more pricy than other places, thus I can conclude that this charming place is fast becoming very exclusive.
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| The Big Buddha of Kho Samui glowing in the sunlight. |
Big Buddha Temple:
The Big Buddha is a majestic statue of the Buddha and can be seen from a distance and is often the first landmark that people see. It was built in 1972 and remains one of the Islands popular attractions.
The 12-metre seated Buddha sits in the Mara posture with the left hand's palm up resting on the lap and the right hand facing down, the fingers hanging over the knee and grazing the ground. It depicts a time in the Buddha's journey to enlightenment where he successfully subdued the temptations and dangers thrust at him by the devil-figure Mare by meditating and being calm. The pose is a symbol of steadfastness, purity and enlightenment. The best time to view the Buddha is just before sunset when it is bathed in the golden glow of the fading lights or early in the morning when the monks are chanting. Seeing the Buddha glowing in the sunlight is a real exotic experience.
The Big Buddha is a majestic statue of the Buddha and can be seen from a distance and is often the first landmark that people see. It was built in 1972 and remains one of the Islands popular attractions.
The 12-metre seated Buddha sits in the Mara posture with the left hand's palm up resting on the lap and the right hand facing down, the fingers hanging over the knee and grazing the ground. It depicts a time in the Buddha's journey to enlightenment where he successfully subdued the temptations and dangers thrust at him by the devil-figure Mare by meditating and being calm. The pose is a symbol of steadfastness, purity and enlightenment. The best time to view the Buddha is just before sunset when it is bathed in the golden glow of the fading lights or early in the morning when the monks are chanting. Seeing the Buddha glowing in the sunlight is a real exotic experience.
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| Wat Ratcha Thammaram |
Wat Ratcha Thammaram - Snake Pagoda Temple
This Temple is absolutely beautiful and had impressed me a lot. Inside the Temple are lots of carvings, statues and designs. It feels like the walls are telling a story.
The Snake Stone Pagoda is also within the same grounds and the Pagoda is used to enshrine the Buddha relics from a trip to Sri Lanka.
At the end of the stairs leading down from the Pagoda to the sea is the scenic bay of Hua Thanon. It is a great place to sit back and relax and enjoy the views.
This Temple is absolutely beautiful and had impressed me a lot. Inside the Temple are lots of carvings, statues and designs. It feels like the walls are telling a story.
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| Stairs at the Snake Pagoda |
The Snake Stone Pagoda is also within the same grounds and the Pagoda is used to enshrine the Buddha relics from a trip to Sri Lanka.
At the end of the stairs leading down from the Pagoda to the sea is the scenic bay of Hua Thanon. It is a great place to sit back and relax and enjoy the views.
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| The statues of the Magical Secret Garden |
The Secret Buddha Garden
This enchanting garden is hidden away high in the hills of Kho Samui. It is a peaceful place in a beautiful setting.
The gardens are a creation of an old Samui fruit farmer, Nim Thongsuk, who in 1976 began erecting several statues and temples around his land.
The statues in the garden depict a number of animals, deities and humans in various poses.
There is also a statue of Khun Num himself. in a relaxed position on a rock. He continued to work in his garden until his death at the age of 91.
There are a stream and a waterfall flowing through the garden and it is surrounded by the jungle.
This magical and sacred place was a big highlight of our trip.
Getting there on your own with a motorbike should only be attempted by experienced drivers. We tried the first time to go with the motorbike but I got so frightened of the steep road that we had to turn back. We resolved then to rent a 4x4 car with a driver and it was a much more relaxing and safer experience. Rides to the garden can be easily arranged with most tour agents in Samui.
This enchanting garden is hidden away high in the hills of Kho Samui. It is a peaceful place in a beautiful setting.
The gardens are a creation of an old Samui fruit farmer, Nim Thongsuk, who in 1976 began erecting several statues and temples around his land.
The statues in the garden depict a number of animals, deities and humans in various poses.
There is also a statue of Khun Num himself. in a relaxed position on a rock. He continued to work in his garden until his death at the age of 91.
There are a stream and a waterfall flowing through the garden and it is surrounded by the jungle.
This magical and sacred place was a big highlight of our trip.
Getting there on your own with a motorbike should only be attempted by experienced drivers. We tried the first time to go with the motorbike but I got so frightened of the steep road that we had to turn back. We resolved then to rent a 4x4 car with a driver and it was a much more relaxing and safer experience. Rides to the garden can be easily arranged with most tour agents in Samui.
Beaches:
Lamai Beach
We stayed at Lamai beach and it is much quieter and less bustling than Chaweng Beach. I loved walking on the beach at sunrise in the mornings. Accommodation is very affordable in Lamai and you can rent a bungalow not far from the beach. The general atmosphere is very laid back and we loved to visit the night market. The night market is open on Sundays, Wednesdays and Thursdays. There are plenty of food options and nice live music to listen to. Generally, Lamai has many options for most tastes and budgets.
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| Laid back - Lamai Beach |
Lamai Beach
We stayed at Lamai beach and it is much quieter and less bustling than Chaweng Beach. I loved walking on the beach at sunrise in the mornings. Accommodation is very affordable in Lamai and you can rent a bungalow not far from the beach. The general atmosphere is very laid back and we loved to visit the night market. The night market is open on Sundays, Wednesdays and Thursdays. There are plenty of food options and nice live music to listen to. Generally, Lamai has many options for most tastes and budgets.
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| Chaweng Beach |
Chaweng Beach
We drove through Chaweng Beach one day and it almost felt a little like Bangkok.😉😉 Busy traffic, shopping malls and all the latest brands available. There is a Walking Street, Central Festival and also the Chaweng Night Market. Chaweng is very upmarket, trendy and the kind of place where the young and restless like to hang out. Chaweng is all about convenience. If you like to be surrounded by your normal city comforts combined with a beach vacation than Chaweng would be the ideal place.
We drove through Chaweng Beach one day and it almost felt a little like Bangkok.😉😉 Busy traffic, shopping malls and all the latest brands available. There is a Walking Street, Central Festival and also the Chaweng Night Market. Chaweng is very upmarket, trendy and the kind of place where the young and restless like to hang out. Chaweng is all about convenience. If you like to be surrounded by your normal city comforts combined with a beach vacation than Chaweng would be the ideal place.
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| Silver Beach |
Silver Beach
This beach is located just north of Lamai Beach and we went there a couple of times. It is an absolutely stunning tropical paradise beach. There are a few hotels around this pristine beach but you can use the beach for free. There are also snorkelling opportunities and kayaks available for rent or you can have a beach massage under the shady trees. It is a great beach to spend the day and conveniently just a few minutes drive from Lamai and 10 minutes from Chaweng.
This beach is located just north of Lamai Beach and we went there a couple of times. It is an absolutely stunning tropical paradise beach. There are a few hotels around this pristine beach but you can use the beach for free. There are also snorkelling opportunities and kayaks available for rent or you can have a beach massage under the shady trees. It is a great beach to spend the day and conveniently just a few minutes drive from Lamai and 10 minutes from Chaweng.
Recommendations and Budget
Attractions:
* All the sights we visited were free except the Buddha Garden where the entrance fee is 80 bath.
However, we do recommend renting a 4x4 car and driver to take you to the Garden.
It is also wise to find out and compare prices from different tour agencies.
It is also wise to find out and compare prices from different tour agencies.
We paid 1000 baths for this excursion and it was the cheapest I could get.
The price included the driver, 4x4 vehicle and transport back.
Motorbike rent.
* If you decide to rent a motorbike during your stay on the Island, keep safety in mind.
* If you decide to rent a motorbike during your stay on the Island, keep safety in mind.
Always wear a helmet, stay hydrated and put on enough sunblock cream.
Motorbikes can be rented from as cheap as 200 baths and there are many rental shops.
Accommodation:
* Low budget - Bungalows with fans are still very cheap at around 300 - 400 baths a night.
Air con Rooms are about 600 baths.
* Mid-range budget - There are many hotels with reasonable prices.
Prices range from 1000 to 2000 baths a night.
High season prices could be more.
* Transport to the Island - Which one is most convenient?
The most convenient way is by plane as it is the least hassles.
By bus is arguably the cheapest but be prepared for a long journey from Bangkok.
By train is convenient if you take the sleep-over train.
* Food and drinks
We found food to be very cheap at the local restaurants in any area.
A normal Thai food dish can be between 60 baths to 120 baths.
At the night markets, it is even cheaper.
The cheapest beer we found was around 50 baths at the local cocktail bar in the area we stayed in.
At higher end places beers or cocktails are priced at about 90 baths to 120 baths or more.
You can use the EXE currency converter to see the exchange rate for prices mentioned above.
Final words.
We do have a few regrets. We missed out on the waterfalls, Ang Thong National Park and many other beautiful beaches. But we certainly plan to return to do it next time. Nevertheless, we had a great time on Kho Samui and fell in love with this beautiful paradise. We also learned that many things are for free and that the Island still has its "wild heart" even though a little more subtle with the years.
We do have a few regrets. We missed out on the waterfalls, Ang Thong National Park and many other beautiful beaches. But we certainly plan to return to do it next time. Nevertheless, we had a great time on Kho Samui and fell in love with this beautiful paradise. We also learned that many things are for free and that the Island still has its "wild heart" even though a little more subtle with the years.
I hope our first time account of Kho Samui will also fire up your wanderlust soul to explore this beautiful tropical paradise.
Happy Travels
M
Happy Travels
M
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| Beautiful views from our motorbike ride - the jungle and the ocean - wild and free |
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